and reaches the end of this tour through the Lavapies or AVAPI, pure and cosmopolitan at once: the elderly English, Indian, Pakistani, Chinese, Muslims, subsaharianios, some Latin American and, at certain times and days, young English people. Who would tell those characters in the seventeenth, the nice, Manolo and rickshaw pullers of XVIII, the thoroughbred of zarzuela, the chops, chotis dancers to the rhythm of organ, the name of your neighborhood so people would be heard in all corners of the planet? This last section will go for the lower area of \u200b\u200bthe amphitheater imaginary we said in the first half.
Lavapiés in the context of downtown Madrid.
Planillo Hand and Footbath ride.
SOME HISTORY
are in the heart of the neighborhood. This place is already a popular village and noisy at that level so valuable Teixeira (1656) . Instead of dueling swordsmen, burglaries and rogue as the seventeenth century. In the eighteenth century, the neighborhood is home of rickshaw pullers (carriage drivers), bullfighters, nice, manolas and other types of the era, far removed from the "Reason and Enlightenment of the eighteenth century.
In the nineteenth century district called the Foundling . He was flanked by his neighbors and also popular: Hospital, East, and Latin the west. Calle de la Magdalena was the northern limit. To the south over the wall of Philip IV (XVII century) and reached the confines of the city, on the banks of the Manzanares, occupying much of the current Arganzuela district, old-school place needy and protagonists of the adventures of characters Galdós and Baroja. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth district is inhabited mayoitariamente for Madrid. Immigrants from other parts of Spain are set to the periphery, being the cheap land still uninhabited. Issue here is the first votes of the PSOE newborn, albeit with very low percentages. Mdrileña The working class does not have full class consciousness and opts for the Republicans.
After the civil war, which was quite hard in this district, as elsewhere, the decline occurs slowly, increasing in the years of product development Franco. Modern houses without breaking the aesthetic taste, migration of youth to the periphery healthier unfortunate reconstructions, etc, made the neighborhood never exceeds its bad reputation and stressed its "underclass." Was gradually losing that Madrid. Today, immigration and the English population somewhat marginal makes your uncomfortable look old and cohabitation is not as harmonious as expected. Gradually gets better but the work is slow and difficult.
LAVAPIÉS SQUARE
where we started the walk the previous entry. The "plaza" of Lavapies (23) is the center neighborhood social. It is a true mix of races and types of all shapes and conditions. It is a triangular-shaped plaza facing the apex to the south. UNED has classrooms, the Teatro Valle Inclán (in a very short appearance) and a number of stores increasing in flux by other ethnic character. Coming from Argumosa Street turn right to reach the Coffee Barbieri (24) at the start of Ave Maria in the corner with Calle de la Fé.
The coffee Madrid Madrid is a istitución of romantic, realistic and pre-civil war. It is the meeting place, January general of the bourgeoisie, large and medium. As coffee is a conspiracy, the gossip, it roams, it is written: are gatherings of yesteryear. Many coffee shops that were in Madrid ( Lift, Farm of Henar , Fontana de Oro, etc) no longer exist, except a few others who survived ups and downs: The Commercial , The Gijón or " Barbieri." The latter is a real gem of establishment, with little touches: mirrors, bar tables, their distribution, etc. A great place to take a quiet drink, tea or coffee. An example of how to survive a while. A few years ago was in a ricón the room, a very elderly lady as a match girl, very nice and told me how she was born on that farm últmo floor and as a memento of his time as a child on Sunday afternoon a car which stopped at the door of the café: a lady came out good-looking and riding in the vehicle. This was before 1931. What historical figure would be in the car, very womanizer, like all his predecessors and successors? Other current cafes changed so much that they lost their charm: The Vienna in Argüelles, for example. Pictured is closed for the desktop when they took the picture. We follow the square, cross Olive Street and take the south of Tribulete.
casticismo AND THE CRUCIBLE FULL
For Tribulete you reach the southern end of the aforementioned Wall Street Inn, pure and cosmopolitan corner with both: the Corrala (25), the Pious Schools (26), and the Foundling . First things first.
corralas The Madrid , were the houses of low quality. Houses were corridor with doors on each floor with access to patio interior, neighborhood meeting place. bore a wooden shoe upper floors in the galleries. This typology is imitation southern and English at the same time. The pen is inhabited by popular types of Madrid, lower class or lower middle. The yard, we see in this corner is a National Monument since 1977. Is now open its outdoor patio, so you better see its structure. These courts were closed. Its architect was José María de Mariategui, who performed in 1839. Some thirty years ago that was restored for posterity.
After viewing the yard, we are in the Wall Street Inn, behind the street market and the said Ambassadors San Fernando. Opens a space as a square. Here, as elsewhere in the neighborhood, this character lives pure and Madrid popular with ethnic types cited: SSA with their brightly colored clothing in summer, Muslim women in these countries merchants such as butchers "Jalal", with cut meat according to Muslim rites, resturants, etc.
There is a housing block of the modern type and no aesthetic value of the 70 . We look at it because it was the site of a very famous institution of Madrid yesterday: The Foundling . The "orphan" was a typical character that Madrid had spent their childhood in this institution. Mothers who got rid of their newborn children to deposit their babies in a vice not to be discovered. I picked up some nuns who raised them until I was about ten or twelve years. When they went in early adolescence had to move to the San Fernando Hospice, an institution that was Fuencarral Street, jewel of Baroque building in Madrid of Pedro de Ribera . This building was demolished and built modern block we see today.
The Pious Schools once was a religious building. Schools were built for the priests Escolapios notif 1762 and 1791. It was destroyed in the war was civil and the ruin of their church, their classrooms have become the market of San Fernando said the first part of the ride. It survived the great dome on a drum and part of the facade. After being abandoned and to be a crime, was restored to the UNED. Today is a library and a splendid restaurant and café. Is an example of how to save historic ruins.
Coffee
Barbieri.
Barbieri.
Olive Street from below, from the square.
Corrala Mesón de Paredes.
modern residential building in the Solar inclusiveness.
traditionalism A LITTLE MORE AND STILL COSMOPOLITANISM
What's more the purity, in this corner were reminded of the soul of the folklore of Madrid and its involvement in cosmopolitanism. A letter of Madrid's most famous chotis written by a Mexican: Agustín Lara, who also wrote songs today taken as true English soul, such as: Granada, dreamland for me. Madrid is a Muslim name: Mairit or Megerit, has a dance from Central Europe: the Scottish schottisch or developed by a Mexican, and now immigration. Therefore, it is Madrid city alluvial and miscegenation. Hence his greatness and originality. Agustín Lara
(Tlacotalpan / Veracruz, 1897-Mexico City, 1970) was from a poor family and eventful life: a little boy moved with his family in Mexico City and combined his musical creations with radio announcer job smpatizante military and the Mexican Revolution. Your Bullfighting made him immortal friend Manolete. Franco gave it a home in Granada universal gratitude for his song.
The "chotis" is the soul of Madrid. Is imported as usual in Madrid and its assimilation into the strange. Is a dance from Central Europe that took its name from "Scottish" or "schottisch" . He came to the Town and Court to stay forever in the mid-nineteenth century. From then on dance festivals to date. It is accompanied by organ music to dance to crank a couple: she "Manton de Manila " and man with a scarf around his neck and a visor cap.
Madrid, Madrid, Madrid
in Mexico think much of you
This letter is universally known and associated with our city. Could only be the corner of Madrid to remind the Mexican composer since 1975 with a statuette. Statue
Mexican composer Agustin Lara.
Tombstone monument.
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Ruins of the Pious Schools.
facade of the Pious Schools, which currently houses the UNED:
National University of Distance Education.
(See left the classrooms again.)
RUNNING WALK Returning
our steps back to the Plaza de Lavapiés and take the Calle de Miguel Servet, in memory of the famous English physician, the victim of Calvin in the sixteenth century, to see, where semiesquina with Calle del Amparo, ua of the taverns that resisted over time. We are in the Donato House Tavern (27) , period.
The Madrid taverns were, like the cafes, the social life of Madrid. But unlike these, were visited by the workers. The wine from La Mancha in Toledo or Valdepeñas, both bullies in the jar (wide mouth square bottle with cork covered with thick), soaked glasses on top of zinc counter, from which came a constant stream of water to wash those glasses and refreshing way of them, were part of these pubs. The rest of the desk was carved and the walls decorated with multicolored tiles with border, leaving half of the blank wall of lime. In
entry May 2, 2009 in my blog I talk about these taverns in Madrid. Do not look earlier in the medela Antonio Sanchez as unique. Others are even better preserved or reforms but something unfortunate or not. Some are: The Ancient King of Wines , Calle Bailen, Casa Paco, Plaza de Puerta Cerrada (where you take the best red meat from Madrid), or the historic as Casa Ciriaco at the end of Main Street (frequented by Zuloaga and where you take the chicken empepitoria), whose murderous bomb doors fell on the day of the wedding of Alfonso XIII in June 1905, or House Tavern Labra on Calle Tetuan, after the Puerta del Sol (instead of battered cod), compared to the side of Corte Inglés. The latter has a discrete Tavern tombstone from the May 2, 1979, recalling the first anniversary of the foundation, in hiding, the PSOE, Pablo Iglesias, Dr. Jaime Vera and some workers. It was the beginning of the organized labor movement in Spain.
Donato House Tavern.
Continuing along the Calle de Miguel Servet down, we see on the right, another corrala (28) more in keeping with the typical type as the previous view. Street closed to overlook the galleries while having one of the walls of a storey high. It's much older, 1790. In 1981 it was well restored with a pink tone. Today its restaurants have such low Lebanese with Arabic food and green teas.
Corrala Miguel Servet (I).
Corrala Miguel Servet (II).
the same street we at the beginning of the first tranche, the Glorieta de Embajadores. End here my first three entries on walks through the historic center of Madrid. I will go gradually exposing other rides later. I chose this area as first as one of the most popular and represntativs of Madrid yesterday in connection with the current. Also, my current house is very near here, is also a brother of the neighborhood where I was born and where he lived my childhood and early jueventud: Malasaña or "Barrio de las Maravillas."
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