After Lima entries based on my Christmas trip to South America, now expose the contrast: I return to my hometown. A few days after returning from the summer Lima, I found a paseillo the Madrid cold winter and a January afternoon. Quite a leap from those streets (shreds) the historical center of Lima to the streets of the central heart of Madrid. City of the Kings of Lima to the Villa y Corte de Madrid.
peculiar urban space
This little corner of the purest Madrid, is located on the southeastern end of the current City Center of Madrid (coincident with the old pre-industrial). Pecualiar Why? These streets were formed in the late sixteenth century as a suburb of the growing city, following the designation by Philip II in Madrid as the permanent seat of the English monarchy in 1561.
This area was a popular neighborhood has always humble class. If you look at the topography we see that is located on a huge hill that descends to the river Manzanares. Its streets are old channels of streams, before urbanization. It has always been known locally as "Slumber," appellation to be topographically low, and class and being popular. This Lavapiés, as Madrid, was a typically castizo little cosmopolitan, operettas and stage manners. But today, since the end of the twentieth century XXI s beginning, the society has changed radically and, still a popular neighborhood economically, is a multicultural area, different races (North Africans, Indians, Pakistanis, Chinese, Latin American, Sub-Saharan African, European tourists or other parts of Spain and, of course, Madrid) walk the streets with their personal habits, exotic establishments, accents and languages \u200b\u200bare heard by their Ricon. Sure your name is known in some corners of these places of origin of immigrants who live there.
To view the tour will make an itinerary that is born and ends at the same point: the Glorieta de Embajadores, south of the neighborhood. 'll Go up and around by its high altitude of reminiscent of an amphitheater, to fall back to the roundabout. Divide it in three innings, given the large number of photos I shot on the trip. Anyway a couple of hours can make the trip safely. As can be seen in the completely level will follow the direction of clockwise. I hope readers like the @ s .
Lavapiés situation in the context of the historical center of Madrid.
AROUND THE ROUNDABOUT OF AMBASSADORS
The today Glorieta de Embajadores (1) was the southernmost city of the Old Regime. There was a secondary Portilo halfway between the Atocha doors and Toledo, true inputs to the town from Toledo, Andalusia and Levante. Its peripheral character gave him a sense of craftsmanship and road. It was a neighborhood of rickshaw pullers and majos and manolas (types castizos Madrid, especially the eighteenth century) ever since. Since the early eighteenth century operettas and farces of Cañizares and Ramon de la Cruz were carried out in these streets, with its picaresque atmosphere and petty crime. Later, between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries are witnessing the peak of zarzuelas lavapiesino and authentic atmosphere. This roundabout has a large bustle of traffic and people, it has an underground station commuter rail and subway that connects to the crowded southern suburbs of metropolitan France.
We lined the street Ambassadors up and see the Casino Queen (3). Before was a real flag. In 1881, Francisco Jarecki size just this building neomudéjar, with the usual brick for Veterinary Faculty, Institute of High Cervantes today.
Casino Queen. 
Ambassadors continue to find, right, the House Tobacco (2) . Is a neoclassical building from the late eighteenth century with later alterations. Today is casrón left waiting and have a use. Initially a card factory and spirits. Their workers were the famous cigar "in the neighborhood. Take arms were women, feminist oasis in Madrid. Conflictive and very rebellious, very organized, even had their nursing home and day care for small children (Asylum Cigar-4) in Tribulete street on the left, past the Instituto Cervantes. In the opposite corner we see the dwelling (5) Madrid typical of the late nineteenth century. They were buildings of brick or not (neomudéjar). Behind them the walls were made of wooden planks with large nails that curl the strong cords or ropes. The neomudéjar Madrid was very typical of the Restoration. It also lies opposite the San Fernando Market (6) , neoherreriano style, taste very Franco from the 40 and 50, with the towers topped in spire of slate.
Old Tobacco Factory. Fronting the roundabout.
Street facade to the Ambassadors.
Cigar Asylum.
tenements on the corner of Tribulete Ambassadors.
Mercado de San Fernando.
STREET UP: IGLESIA DE SAN CAYETANO
Towards the middle of the slope, we see the narrow right hand Cabestreros Crossing, dead silent, typical the neighborhood.
Cabestreros Crossing.
Back on the street, left at the corner of Calle de Rodas, see an old house (9) , now squats example of such must have been in other times. An old and curious front facade tiles with drawings, very typical of Madrid one of the early twentieth century, and there are some copies around the old city. This is an old hairdresser (8) , reconvetida in a booth, although the facade that protected and can not be deleted or altered. Old
hairdresser.
House squatters.
And finally we come to the corner with some of the neighborhood art itself: the Church of San Cayetano (10) . We are facing a Baroque church, the mid-seventeenth century English Sad (1661). It is a unique temple: Greek cross plan with five domes and a central slender and stands in the distance. To be in a very narrow stretch of the road is very difficult to photograph without angular. It is still unclear the author: Marcos López , Churriguera or Pedro de Ribera. Despite the restoration of postwar still see the devastation, especially in the towers, the fire of 1936, at the beginning of civil war. The main façade has three fine niches separated by pilasters that reach the ground. It is flanked by windows with triangular pediments. Brickwork alternating with the base and the slip to the Bear Street ashlar stonework. This is already more ornate baroque than the beginning of the century or Juan Gómez de Mora without hearing masonry boxes, so characteristic of the reign of Philip III. For over twenty years disappeared a tavern opposite the church where they served a very typical spirit of that postwar Spain: the Machaquito, anise very dry, very high alcohol content.
Church of San Cayetano. Baroque, 1661.
Almost at the end of the street, very near Cascorro, Real Madrid corner, neighbor's door and not less castizo Trail, we found, on the left, corner of Abbott Street, an old house urban gentleman (11) , with his shield and full abandonment status, pending a restaración that is crying. A shame if it were demolished, although there have been more outrageous cases, and democracy now. In the years of the ancien regime, the privileged classes and the underprivileged lived in the same neighborhood. Until the nineteenth century, the wealthy do not move to the widening of Salamanca. In front we see the renewed
Teatro Pavón (12) , the Basque architect Theodore Anastos , built between 1924 and 1925, typical building art deco of interwar Europe. Casona
impaired urban gentleman.
Teatro Pavón.
Taking the right hand side, along the Street of the Knights reached the Calle del Meson de Paredes. Here we will follow the next entry.
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