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Lavapiés (I): RISING AMBASSADORS FOR WALKS

After Lima entries based on my Christmas trip to South America, now expose the contrast: I return to my hometown. A few days after returning from the summer Lima, I found a paseillo the Madrid cold winter and a January afternoon. Quite a leap from those streets (shreds) the historical center of Lima to the streets of the central heart of Madrid. City of the Kings of Lima to the Villa y Corte de Madrid.

peculiar urban space

This little corner of the purest Madrid, is located on the southeastern end of the current City Center of Madrid (coincident with the old pre-industrial). Pecualiar Why? These streets were formed in the late sixteenth century as a suburb of the growing city, following the designation by Philip II in Madrid as the permanent seat of the English monarchy in 1561.

This area was a popular neighborhood has always humble class. If you look at the topography we see that is located on a huge hill that descends to the river Manzanares. Its streets are old channels of streams, before urbanization. It has always been known locally as "Slumber," appellation to be topographically low, and class and being popular. This Lavapiés, as Madrid, was a typically castizo little cosmopolitan, operettas and stage manners. But today, since the end of the twentieth century XXI s beginning, the society has changed radically and, still a popular neighborhood economically, is a multicultural area, different races (North Africans, Indians, Pakistanis, Chinese, Latin American, Sub-Saharan African, European tourists or other parts of Spain and, of course, Madrid) walk the streets with their personal habits, exotic establishments, accents and languages \u200b\u200bare heard by their Ricon. Sure your name is known in some corners of these places of origin of immigrants who live there.

To view the tour will make an itinerary that is born and ends at the same point: the Glorieta de Embajadores, south of the neighborhood. 'll Go up and around by its high altitude of reminiscent of an amphitheater, to fall back to the roundabout. Divide it in three innings, given the large number of photos I shot on the trip. Anyway a couple of hours can make the trip safely. As can be seen in the completely level will follow the direction of clockwise. I hope readers like the @ s .

Lavapiés situation in the context of the historical center of Madrid.

AROUND THE ROUNDABOUT OF AMBASSADORS

The today Glorieta de Embajadores (1) was the southernmost city of the Old Regime. There was a secondary Portilo halfway between the Atocha doors and Toledo, true inputs to the town from Toledo, Andalusia and Levante. Its peripheral character gave him a sense of craftsmanship and road. It was a neighborhood of rickshaw pullers and majos and manolas (types castizos Madrid, especially the eighteenth century) ever since. Since the early eighteenth century operettas and farces of Cañizares and Ramon de la Cruz were carried out in these streets, with its picaresque atmosphere and petty crime. Later, between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries are witnessing the peak of zarzuelas lavapiesino and authentic atmosphere. This roundabout has a large bustle of traffic and people, it has an underground station commuter rail and subway that connects to the crowded southern suburbs of metropolitan France.

We lined the street Ambassadors up and see the Casino Queen (3). Before was a real flag. In 1881, Francisco Jarecki size just this building neomudéjar, with the usual brick for Veterinary Faculty, Institute of High Cervantes today.

Casino Queen.

Ambassadors continue to find, right, the House Tobacco (2) . Is a neoclassical building from the late eighteenth century with later alterations. Today is casrón left waiting and have a use. Initially a card factory and spirits. Their workers were the famous cigar "in the neighborhood. Take arms were women, feminist oasis in Madrid. Conflictive and very rebellious, very organized, even had their nursing home and day care for small children (Asylum Cigar-4) in Tribulete street on the left, past the Instituto Cervantes. In the opposite corner we see the dwelling (5) Madrid typical of the late nineteenth century. They were buildings of brick or not (neomudéjar). Behind them the walls were made of wooden planks with large nails that curl the strong cords or ropes. The neomudéjar Madrid was very typical of the Restoration. It also lies opposite the San Fernando Market (6) , neoherreriano style, taste very Franco from the 40 and 50, with the towers topped in spire of slate.

Old Tobacco Factory. Fronting the roundabout.

Street facade to the Ambassadors.

Cigar Asylum.

tenements on the corner of Tribulete Ambassadors.

Mercado de San Fernando.

STREET UP: IGLESIA DE SAN CAYETANO
Towards the middle of the slope, we see the narrow right hand Cabestreros Crossing, dead silent, typical the neighborhood.

Cabestreros Crossing.

Back on the street, left at the corner of Calle de Rodas, see an old house (9) , now squats example of such must have been in other times. An old and curious front facade tiles with drawings, very typical of Madrid one of the early twentieth century, and there are some copies around the old city. This is an old hairdresser (8) , reconvetida in a booth, although the facade that protected and can not be deleted or altered. Old

hairdresser.

House squatters.

And finally we come to the corner with some of the neighborhood art itself: the Church of San Cayetano (10) . We are facing a Baroque church, the mid-seventeenth century English Sad (1661). It is a unique temple: Greek cross plan with five domes and a central slender and stands in the distance. To be in a very narrow stretch of the road is very difficult to photograph without angular. It is still unclear the author: Marcos López , Churriguera or Pedro de Ribera. Despite the restoration of postwar still see the devastation, especially in the towers, the fire of 1936, at the beginning of civil war. The main façade has three fine niches separated by pilasters that reach the ground. It is flanked by windows with triangular pediments. Brickwork alternating with the base and the slip to the Bear Street ashlar stonework. This is already more ornate baroque than the beginning of the century or Juan Gómez de Mora without hearing masonry boxes, so characteristic of the reign of Philip III. For over twenty years disappeared a tavern opposite the church where they served a very typical spirit of that postwar Spain: the Machaquito, anise very dry, very high alcohol content.

Church of San Cayetano. Baroque, 1661.

Almost at the end of the street, very near Cascorro, Real Madrid corner, neighbor's door and not less castizo Trail, we found, on the left, corner of Abbott Street, an old house urban gentleman (11) , with his shield and full abandonment status, pending a restaración that is crying. A shame if it were demolished, although there have been more outrageous cases, and democracy now. In the years of the ancien regime, the privileged classes and the underprivileged lived in the same neighborhood. Until the nineteenth century, the wealthy do not move to the widening of Salamanca. In front we see the renewed
Teatro Pavón (12) , the Basque architect Theodore Anastos , built between 1924 and 1925, typical building art deco of interwar Europe. Casona

impaired urban gentleman.

Teatro Pavón.

Taking the right hand side, along the Street of the Knights reached the Calle del Meson de Paredes. Here we will follow the next entry.

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CENTER LIMA (Y 4): THE OTHER TOURS

And we got to the fourth and last entry in the Case of Lima. This entry continues, as above, suffer from significant omissions, places and photos taken something wrong. Lack of time and lack of a good camera, had a plain little camera and mobile phone, prevented higher quality images and text. Well I'm just my impressions, very personal and special indeed. In this post we will leave the small square in which we have moved in the past, seeing a very brief overview of the Peruvian and South American big city. BORDERING

CENTER
For this step we look at the attached map.

Map adjacent to the historic center.

We are located in the extreme northwest of the central square in Santa Rosa Bridge Street and continue to Tacna in the opposite direction to the river Rimac. We can see the Sanctuary of Santa Rosa de Lima , true worship of Lima, the saint of the XVI and XVII. Find your home and church. Then comes the Nazarene . Before, if we turn to the right is the home of San Martin de Porres , the black saint of Lima. Another veneration of the city, carrying one of its neighborhoods name. Taking

Piérola Nicholas Avenue, which intersects with Tacna, going in the direction of Plaza de San Martín. Quilca street kiosks is to take something to drink and eat. It is a street recovered its previous decline. It was formerly a street booksellers. In his corner are the Camaná Bar Queirolo, a skid local jewel, the city's traditional establishment. Continuing on Camana SW direction, we reach the Plaza de France, where the Church of the Recoleta . If we continue the tour, behind the church, take the Avenida del Inca Garcilaso, to reach the Paseo de la República, open place, where we admire the Roosevelt building interesting and grandiose neoclassical courthouse . From here, heading south, exit the Expressway or fast highway traffic (a kind of M-30 Madrid) and leads to the southern suburbs and elegant Lima, Lima, well, that of "Pituka" which are equivalent to the "posh" English.

Returning to San Martín, and followed by Piérola, we have the bizarre Casona de San Marcos, where stood the traditional University Viceroyalty of Peru. Beside him is the Pantheon of Heroes . It is a lovely setting in the middle of University Park Gardens. We are at the southern end of the central square. In front, a huge skyscraper hosted for years the Ministry of Education . Taking Abancay Street to the northeast, we see left hand National Library, brutally sacked by the Chileans in the War of the XIX century Salitre and recovered under the direction of the eminent writer Ricardo Palma, author of Morals: Peruvian traditions. Almost opposite is, to rotate (turn) right, the extension of Jiron Ucayali, and after him, we get a cover of the Chinese type: the Capon Street, a place full restaurants and oriental shops as a result of the influx of Chinese who arrived in the nineteenth century the country. In all Peru there are many Chinese restaurants Chifa where to take the original "fried rice" and other dishes fusion of both Chinese and Peruvian food. Behind him stands Barrios Altos, a bad reputation for insecurity, but business district with good temples and streets. There is a market for pets of all kinds. No property is located, it took me to him. Returning to Abancay, in the Plaza de Bolívar, encotramos the Congress, home of the Peruvian state legislature. Entry

the Capon Street and "Chinatown."

The author of the blog with her friends filed Lima before the Pantheon of Heroes, after seeing the elegant building Casona de San Marcos.

cross the Rimac River Bridge by Ricardo Palma . We entered the district of Rimac, north of the square. In this quarter are: the old Acho Bullring and Alameda de los Descalzos. The Lima area was made famous by the Catalan Bullfighting the Viceroy Amat, eighteenth century, contemporaneous with the laughing at Carlos III. He was also fond Lima women, then had sex with a beautiful actress he rudely nicknamed "the Perricholi " rude expression " chola bitch." Cholo in Peru is Indian, a word rarely used and poor acceptance. Farther north is the Cerro de San Cristobal, excellent vantage point to see the city. To climb it must be done by bus from the Plaza de Armas. Its slopes are occupied by slums of marginal population. Unable to walk.

The hill of San Blas from the roof of the house Osambela.

LIMA HISTORY IN MAPS
After these walks adjoining the historic center, we show the spatial evolution of Lima.

Lima in the eighteenth century.

This map oriented to the southwest, I have drawn a line that defines the central square.

And now some very interesting maps of Lima and its historical evolution from the foundation.


In 1535 we observed the initial camp Pizarro. Several kms stood and port of Callao.



At the beginning of the seventeenth century until the eighteenth medados central square is now emerging as solid nuclei, embryos of future neighborhoods. The port of Callao has been developed something, given its importance in the Empire, as Peru was the basic viceroyalty. In 1750 and was the Real Felipe.



In the early twentieth century, almost a century and life of republican Peru and independent Creole Lima after the space extends beyond its crumbling walls. El Callao (port) and Barranco (district houses the new oligarchy) have developed greatly.



In 1940 the city grew south and has reached the sea where, parallel to the coast, has developed a continuous arc extending from Chorrillos to Callao.

In the years
60 has been begun the rural exodus of the Peruvian countryside to the city of Lima. Thousands and thousands of peasants indñigenas from all corners of Peru are installed in poor quality neighborhoods surrounding the old Lima. In 1970 and is a great city in its growth extensión.Sigue now becoming one of the mega-cities of Latin America.

La Lima today. Note the central square in the city total.

Discover

LIMA conurbation

First of all, to say that Lima's public transport is poor, there are good coaches, not There are subway and traffic, so it is chaotic. Transport is by taxi throughout Lima. You need to negotiate and haggle with the driver before the price in soles. This chaotic traffic makes the city is very polluted and "chew" the smoke of diesel and gasoline. Buses, minibuses rather, are small and uncomfortable "combis", crowded but cheap. Best to take taxis.

From Larco Mar, boutique resort on the edge of the beach and south of the fashionable district of Miraflores , you can see the vastness of the Pacific. Seeing a world map is to imagine the distance from the other side: Asia and Oceania. Also used to seeing the Atlantic, and imagine a few hours flying the American side, now you realize you are nowhere near Spain and Europe. Miraflores is the district " Pituka " - " posh" in Spain, for excellence. Prices go up greatly, security is almost completely assured, executives and people show themselves well, and tourists from around the world as well. Walking through these streets is like being in Europe or the United States, has elegance, cosmopolitanism .... The heart of the Miraflores Oval, next to Kennedy Park , a place where luxury trade, tourist hotels, restaurants and terraces, is especially " alley pizzas." The Larco Mar shopping complex is not recommended: the prices are abusive, typical to rip off tourists and reveal where these wealthy.

Pacific from Larco Mar is a terrace between the ravine that drops to the beach, occupied by the Costa Verde Park . At the foot of highways.

Chorrillos, in background, from Larco Mar.

Miraflores buildings from the same point, but in the opposite direction.

Our next trip is developed BARRANCO , IMMEDIATELY south of Miraflores, another neighborhood "good" of Lima. Delivered to the Pacific, which emphasizes the central plaza, where the Municipality. Behind her, descend to Bridge of Sighs, which flows to the nearby beach. Restaurants with terraces overlooking the sea and cafes dominate the landscape. Also very expensive prices. Is normal, the Lima Pituka. Highlight the remarkable Barranco Pedro de Osma Museum , millionaire in the first half of the twentieth century, a descendant of a English family of the town of Osma Soria. The museum occupies the elegant mansion, which houses a splendid collection of arts of all kinds, large and small. As a leisure highlight a restaurant-pizzeria is in an old railroad car , visible from the main square. Also visit a bar tipiquísimo Barranco: Casa Juanito, ancient, authentic and similar to the already mentioned Queirolo de Lima.

Barranco wagon-restaurant.

The student tuna Barranco. Tunas surprised to hear English songs to almost the antipodes of the peninsula. Clavelitos sang, the tapes of my coat, etc, etc.

And finally, EL CALLAO , the typical fishing district of Peru. Although in the crush of Lima, is different, not only Lima but not, not even the department. It's a different province, is the Constitutional Province of Callao . The former Colonial Avenue, now renamed Oscar R. Benavides, connecting El Callao to the center of Lima from the Plaza del Dos de Mayo. It is the historic road, witnessed the most remarkable episodes from the sixteenth century. It is difficult to get there: Taxis often refuse to be different provincial entity, by its remoteness and insecurity. It is very intresante see Real Felipe, a fortress in the mid eighteenth century by Philip V ordered up as defense against pirate attacks. This huge castle was symbolic for the time of Emancipation, because it entrenched the last English army under General English, Galician: Rodil. He surrendered the fort in January 1826, even after the final battles of Junín and Ayacucho. Walking through the streets of maritime flavor, with taverns and seafood restaurants has its charm and its risk. At any time, a troubled street, you can give us a nasty upset with his "Piranha and mussels " criminals on the street slang. A shame because the typicality of their houses are perfect for walking sailor. With crosses Avenida Sáenz Peña Pedro Ruiz Street, where the headquarters of the newspaper El Callao. It is a street of different colors reminiscent of the polychrome of Buenos Aires and Buenos Aires neighborhood of La Boca. Something far is the most elegant and safe: La Punta, from where we can see the Pacific and nearby small islands San Lorenzo and Fronton. From this bay on May 2, 1866, the Galician-English Admiral Casto Méndez Núñez shamelessly bombed the port causing huge destruction and some victims. Was how to prove that the old Elizabethan Spain metropolis still raging outside. It is difficult, for bad times, see the Naval Museum, which tells the story marinara in the country. However, opposite is the Abtao submarine can be visited inside. Many bars are located in the beach where local fish and ceviche. The ceviche, along with the pachamanca, or kebabs (grilled hearts), potatoes, fried rice mentioned, and other dishes, is one of the prides of Peruvian cuisine. Also came from Ica, Pisco Souer or Inka Cola beverages are the country. Elegant

garden house in La Punta de El Callao.

See the newspaper El Callao.

To finish this post and these earlier monographic expose two maps of the Department of Lima, with the provinces and an entire department with some interesting places that still do not know but time will do so. Lima journalist Rafo Leon is a published author and renowned travel guides. It must be a sea of \u200b\u200binteresting, given its setting between the Pacific and the Andes. Places such as Oyón , Huacho , Caral , with remains to be the oldest culture of Peru, Cañete , Incahuasi , Pachacamac and I think the great Mountains are of Yauyos for enjoy hiking.

Political Map of the provinces the department of Lima.

Detailed map of the department of Lima.

And with this last post I hope I have learned something the city of Lima, a city that I particularly like, and I've been lucky enough to discover little by little hands of friends and friends of Lima. Dejaindiferente a city that the traveler and that I think has earned its membership in the club of cities with a monumental historical World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

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LIMA CENTER LIMA 3: OTHER BUILDINGS

The author of the blog before the statue of Pizarro in the Parque de la Muralla.

Station Homeless.

We got to the third and penultimate entry on the city of Lima (for now). In this third tour, the reader can see how the architectural and artistic wealth of the Peruvian capital is not limited to only the baroque churches and colonial houses and / or Republican. Modernism has some very good examples, witnessed a burgeoning middle class in early twentieth century. Eclecticism, which coexists with the previous one, and art Deco or rationalism and of the wars, years, as I have understood, a thriving city and its intellectual life and fun.

took in the plane, you can see that the tour starts this time in the Plaza San Martín, and ends behind the Plaza de Armas.

LA PLAZA DE SAN MARTIN (1)

The square is named after the founder of modern Peru in July 1820 is square, the center of the daily life of the city center. Arqutectónico space is more or less harmonized in an eclectic style of the early twentieth century. The equestrian statue of the Liberator dominates the square.

The statue of the Liberator San Martín.

The author of the blog and two bloggers friends Edyye (left) and Carlos, the baterillero.

The author and two other bloggers: Eddye again and Arthur, amauta.

THE HEIGHT OF MODERNISM LIMEÑA
Modernist art is the ultimate bourgeois art. In the early twentieth century the bourgeoisie the world feel the need for a distanced art of engineers offering iron or historicist. Buildings Modernists are exemplary indispensable in any city in the time that price, even though in some cities this is not a hallmark style. The fantasy, the impetus for creation and innovation makes the artist not only limited to buildings, but also domestic and everyday objects. Buildings
fleeing pediments, columns or pinnacles, to design curves and arabesques, in a richly decorated set that unfolds railings, furniture, etc.

From San Martin took the usual, bustling commercial Jiron de la Union. On the corner with the wide street stands the Emancipation Concert Palais (2) , Jewel of modernism Lima and buildings reminiscent of Vienna. The patch of the Union was the social space of the urban bourgeoisie, before moving to the suburbs of Miraflores and Barranco.

The Palais Concert.

Continuing on Jiron de la Union, turn-left turned around to see the Huancavelica Teatro Segura (3) , carried neoclassical modernist decor mixed with elemental very mild at the top. The theater was the great fun of the bourgeoisie in those prewar years or Peace Navy. This Christmas was its centennial, as shown in the poster-mural on its facade.

Teatro Segura.

Union back to take the right side in the direction of Plaza de Armas. Here are more typically modernist building of the city: the Photo Studio (4) . The elements of modernism are perfectly seen before and give a building of modest size but very balanced and integrated in the shred. It has nothing to envy in the same style buildings in other cities. Personally, the central balcony just below the inscription of the Photo Studio, masks reminds me of Gaudi in Barcelona Casa Batlló. A building more advanced in time More eclectic is the adjoining townhouse. Interesting, but dwarfed before the "It study."

The Photo Studio.

Details Photo Studio.


annexed the former building.

Turning by Ucayali, after crossing the Pasaje Olaya and Carabaya Shred in his corner Lampa, one arrives at something larger neo-classical building, which currently holds the Philatelic Museum (5) . The neoclassical style was the preferred sites to be earmarked for banking and finance, looking to join some beauty with more functional. In those years I imagine that these streets would be a small "City" financial and central business district (CBD).

Philatelic Museum.

Backing for Ucayali, after crossing Carabaya, we turn to the right to see a building Art Deco (6) on Pasaje Olaya, a young fisherman Chorrillos, patriot . It was discovered by the royalists and shot in his youth the years immediately preceding the Emancipation inevitable.

AROUND LA PLAZA DE ARMAS
El Pasaje Olaya leads to the Plaza de Armas. Two sides of the square plane of the same color are striking for their cake and neo-colonial style, with wooden balconies and decorated property. The City (7) occupies one of its buildings. To its north side is enlarged Superunda County Street. In this small room stood a statue of Pizarro, in prominent pedestal, and Sivia a model for its namesake in its native Trujillo in the English region of Extremadura. A few years ago moved to the nearby Parque de La Muralla. No pedestal, and between leaves, which made it highly visible. Next you can tour the Passage Mail (8) , gallery building steel structure, so typical of those times, in which artists and engineers were discussing their works.

Art Deco building.

Municipality of Lima on the Plaza de Armas.

El Pasaje del Correo.

Back at the Plaza de Armas, we still have the neo-baroque and eclectic neo Presidential Palace (9) . Sometimes it can be visited prior permission of the guards, some inner rooms. Tourists swarm in their gates to see the Relay Guard. On this site stood the old Viceregal Palace since the time of the founding of Lima.

presidential palace.

On the southeast side of the palace wall, taking Carabaya Street, we reach the station Homeless (10) . The building is very curious. Was once a railway station. After its abandonment as a station, he became a great exhibition halls spanning the history of Peruvian literature, from the oral traditions of the Incas to the present. CONCLUDING

WALK
Homeless After you get to a lot of work to restore an area degraded urban: the Park La Muralla (11). Until relatively recently it was a place for drug addicts, marginalized, etc. Today is a park that displays the archaeological remains of the old wall. It is also a place to ride on weekends. As we said, the statue of Pizarro is in this park, but in a low profile of observation.

The two photos of the principle should be in this space, but a miscalculation made me put at the beginning.

A walk in the center square of colonial Lima that end here. Three rides are not looking for a comprehensive presentation of buildings. Many places have been omitted. That is a daunting task and give a book of great extension, which gives an idea of \u200b\u200bthe importance of this small urban area. It is rather a complex of buildings that attracted my attention on my walks. In the next and last entry will outline some places that I liked the square outside the Lima study. It will also provide a very modest, mindful of the many places and buildings that I need, so much to see, as already seen but not photographed. For a good guide (both text and photo) is required at least one or two months' stay there. Not to mention other interesting corners of the city.

The consultation of Google Earth I have been very useful. Good maps, too, both guides and tourist brochures taken there.

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